Vienna
On the evening of the 23rd February 1995, Mary and I went on a date.
It was wonderful.
We were having so much fun that I caught the London Underground with Mary to escort her back to her university halls of residence. Not that she needed escorting, mind you. It was just a ruse in which we both tacitly played along so the date wouldn't end.
As we exited Ravenscourt Park station I realised I only had a few hundred metres until Mary's front door (and thus, the end of our wonderful date). I had to tell her how I felt about her. Ahead was a corner turning onto the road on which she lived, and so I gave myself until the corner to speak up.
Of course, I blundered around trying to get the conversation to the right place (to no avail), and I think we both knew what sort of a shy, tentative and embarrassing conversation was coming up. As I recall, I stopped at the corner, faced her and just blurted out how I felt about her. It felt like an incoherent tumble of words. But it must have made sense because I remember her grinning widely, laughing and saying that she felt the same way. Then I asked if I could kiss her.
We ended up holding hands and walking (and kissing!), for a couple more hours as we meandered around Hammersmith in joyful conversation. In the end I had to catch the night bus home and we agreed to meet the next day at a concerto competition in which she was performing (she was playing Haydn's first cello concerto with Steven Isserlis adjudicating). Little did I know her family would be there... but I'll leave the story of that hilarious first encounter for another day.
Two and a half years later, we were married and have been an "us" ever since. Our life together has been the most important, wonderful and fulfilling thing I have ever experienced.
To celebrate 30 years since that first kiss (when we both feel we became "an item") we decided to visit Vienna ~ the city of musicians. Both of us had never visited Vienna, and with its wealth of history, music, art, philosophy, food and drink, we knew we would have lots of fun exploring this amazing city.
We were not disappointed.
Embedded below is an album of the photographs I took. Upon reflection, I realise my focus was mostly on the faces I encountered... the many faces of Vienna.
Thursday, the first day was full of travel, long and tiring. It didn't help that Stansted airport and Ryanair share a common flaw: a business strategy that aims to blind people with knock-down prices, only to sneakily charge folks for basic needs (like baggage space, sustenance and comfort) all the while entrapping people in a prison of relentless advertising. It meant we were relieved to arrive in Vienna, catch the clean, efficient and cheap train into the city centre, and then find our hotel.
After a rest we explored on foot - our usual way to soak up the atmosphere of a place. Happily, our hotel was in the centre of Vienna and so it took all of five minutes to find the well known monument to Mozart in one of the local parks, visit St.Stephen's cathedral and to soak up the evening energy. Our wandering brought on thoughts of food and we looked for a restaurant. Local cuisine is part of the adventure of a new place, and we were not disappointed to find Beisl in der Sigmundsgasse in a quiet side-street close to our hotel. It's a small, traditional family-run restaurant, and the food was excellent (I had Tafelspitz mit Apfelkren, Spinat und Kartoffel with Mary plumping for the vegetarian Geröstete Knödel mit Ei und Salat). We also met the owner's dog, Cosmo... a bundle of canine energy and fun. Such succulent sustenance and canine company was a wonderful close to a tiring day.
Friday was our day of art galleries.
We spent the morning exploring the Leopold Museum, a five minute walk from the coffee shop in which we had breakfast.
It was here that my fascination with the faces of Vienna emerged. Among the extensive catalogue of pieces are a large number of striking portraits or sculptures. I never take photos in galleries, but found myself doing so in reaction to the pieces, how they were placed together in the rooms, and because there was a compelling narrative unfolding as we wandered through the different galleries. It brought the objects to life, gave them context and the morning felt like a wonderful journey of discovery. I also enjoyed the architecture of the gallery: the windows looking out to Vienna framed the city, as if it were itself a work of art on display.
Some pieces engaged both Mary and I more than others.

The room containing portraits by Koloman Moser made a big impression - not only because of the quality of the art, but because of the connection it made with us both. The "Spring" picture (shown above) of a young man "springing", or full of the "joys of spring", or even in "springtime" (?) reminded us both of Mary's late uncle David. David was well known for innocently disrobing at the earliest possible opportunity - although he didn't explicitly describe himself as a nudist - and the unselfconscious joie de vivre of the painting reminded us of David. It also led to jokes about the amount of Viennese sausage on display, and it being "not the Wurst painting in the gallery".
We spent the afternoon exploring the fascinating archaeological exhibits in the Museum of Ephesus. Ephesus is in modern day Turkey and was the home of Heraclitus, an ancient Greek pre-Socratic philosopher who resonates deeply with me. I have a long standing interest in archaeology - as a child I was passionate about history and archaeology and visited many archaeological sites, digs and ancient monuments here in the UK. Why? Simply because I was fascinated to learn who these people were, what they were up to, and why they might have been doing what they were doing. Engaging with and exploring the remains from such time-distant cultures helps us to understand ourselves. I have an abiding childhood memory of feeling that these people are so much like ourselves while also being completely different - a rather wonderful opportunity to see the familiar in an unfamiliar manner. The fragments from Ephesus didn't disappoint in this respect.
In the evening we took another improvised stroll around the city as we found our way to the Musikverein - the concert hall that is the home of the world class Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. If ever you've watch the Vienna New Year's Concert you're watching that orchestra performing in that place.
The programme was:
- Arnold Schönberg - Ode to Napoleon Buonaparte, op. 41b (Fassung für Streichorchester, Klavier und Sprecher)
- Ludwig van Beethoven - Klavierkonzert Nr. 5 Es-Dur, op. 73
- Ludwig van Beethoven - Symphonie Nr. 3 Es-Dur, op. 55, „Eroica“
I love some of the music of Arnold Schoenberg - Verklärte Nacht being especially important to me. Yet the Ode to Napoleon (and its well known hexachord) was a difficult listen because I wasn't in the right frame of mind to engage. It was striking that the performers segued directly into the piano concerto without pause, so the atonal dissonance of the Schoenberg suddenly became a striking Eb major orchestral tutti followed by the well known cascade of virtuosic arpeggios from the pianist. The audience suddenly sat up in a moment of musical recognition and cheeky yet surprising programming of the music.
The interval proved music is a universal language.
As I wandered the corridors to find the wash-room I did a spot of people watching. I don't speak German, so I had no idea what folks were specifically talking about, but the snatches of musical jargon, composers' names, tone of voice and gesticulations from participants gave me the general character of what was being discussed and why: a shared deep love of music. I felt connected and among friends, despite my anonymity and the language barriers.
After the interval the orchestra gave an excellent sprightly performance of Beethoven's Eroica symphony. Here's a live recording of the orchestra, in the Musikverein, performing the same work in a different concert. It'll give you a good impression of the location, mood and music of our evening.
The Eroica is an old friend of mine. While a student at the Royal College of Music I participated in a Schenkerian analysis of the work, which ended up with a I-V-I cadence in Eb major (the so-called Ursatz). This is very much like doing a colour analysis of Whistler's Nocturne: Blue and Gold, only to conclude that it's mostly blue, but with a bit of gold. The important aspect of this process is the journey from detail to big-picture (and back again) and what this reveals about the specific work under examination.
In any case, the Vienna Phil were in fine form and I particularly enjoyed the robust horn playing in the third movement, and the humour in the finale as Beethoven starts a theme and variations with the theme gone missing. The orchestra spends the opening minutes trying to find it, but once found, have a great time playing around with it. Beethoven at his best.
That we were among music lovers became evident during the finale as I became more aware of the others in our box. The couple at the back had clearly fallen out and were whispering angrily to each other. But then a wonderful elderly lady of slight build stopped them in their tracks with the most pointed yet well placed and subtle shush I've ever witnessed in my life. It would have got nods of approval from even the most battle hardened of school librarians. Once noticed I couldn't help but pay closer attention to the elderly lady, for she was lost in the music, gently conducting with one hand and with a beautific look on her face. Yet as the applause started, with the last note echoing away, she was off like a rocket to avoid the mayhem of the crowds trying to retrieve their coats and scarves from the cloakrooms. She was an old hand at this. I hope she gets to hear many more concerts, because she embodied a music lover totally present and invested in the performance. Virtuoso listening. Bravo!
A post concert dinner and night-time stroll capped off a culturally rich and stimulating day.
Saturday was more of the same, yet very different!
We had tickets for a visit to the Kunst Historisches Museum in the morning, and a booking for the Seigmund Freud Museum in the afternoon.
The art history museum is itself an architectural work of art from a certain imperious, confident and ostentatious time in Vienna's history. It's a bling place for Vienna's artistic and historical bling. And it was a lot of fun.
We started in the Egyptian rooms, where we encountered some very expressive sarcophagi based faces, along with a beautiful stylised statuette of a hippo. That it was 4000 years old, yet looked like it could have been made only decades ago, was staggering (to me). In the case next to it was 4500 year old jewellery of exquisite craftsmanship that wouldn't look out of place in a contemporary New-Age or alternative ethnic clothing boutique. Recalling my childhood passion for archaeology, I couldn't help but feel these folks were so like us, yet so different. Who sculpted the hippo with such skill, and on what occasion was the jewellery to be worn (and by whom)..? Yet these thoughts work in reverse: how might folks 4500 years hence view the artefacts surviving from our world? I've written about this before and it helps me retain a sense of perspective about the work I do today. The computers and code I use to build things are really quite insignificant in the grand scheme of things. Furthermore, our perspectives and ways of paying attention to our computing work (arising from our current culture), are only fleeting, temporary and will appear strange to future generations in much the same way Egyptian art appears to us. We've not been coding for 100 years, so I dare you to wonder what computing will be like in 5000 years. What will be the same? What will be different?
Clearly the museum was working its magic and I was in a thoughtful mood.
The next rooms were full of classical sculpture and I recognised old friends (busts of Aristotle, Alexander, Caesar) and enjoyed more anonymous sculptures and paintings of our ancestors from only 2000 years ago. Highlights included Roman "selfies" painted onto the mummies of Egyptian citizens of the Roman empire, and striking busts of rich-yet-anonymous Roman movers and shakers trying to impress their neighbours. It turns out that keeping up with the Joneses was alive and well in the Roman world.
And, of course, there were examples of civic and ceremonial bronze sculptures of gods, emperors and representations of virtues and vices. Mary was especially taken by one in particular.

Moving forward in time as we walked through the museum, we eventually found ourselves in a more traditional art gallery: rooms hung with paintings. It was here that I found some wonderfully odd portraits. Often the subjects were in their glad rags, sporting the latest hair-dos or facial topiary and posing to project their status, wisdom or success. This clearly brought home the folly of such vanity. These folk are long dead and gone, and their names are only remembered because they hired a really great artist to paint their portrait. I imagine future generations will similarly have a good laugh at our collective expense as they explore our pouting selfies, oh so perfect performative lives and projections of success via shallow social media posts. It turns out pretentiousness, posturing and narcissism is a recurring theme in history: it's at least as old as those Egyptian sarcophagi from 5000 years ago.
Some of the portraits were very striking. Arcimboldo's portraits of the four seasons and the four elements were fun to see in person. I also enjoyed the "where's Wally" explorations of Bruegel the Elder's paintings, containing portraits and character studies of people in crowded scenes. The bagpipe player was particularly enjoyable.
After lunch we took a tram to visit a very different museum.

Freud fled the Nazis and so took most of his stuff to London. If you're ever in London, go see the famous couch. Sadly, it means that his Vienna home, where we visited, is mostly empty of his possessions. You get to see his doctor's bag, some things in the patient's waiting room, and the mirror in his office (in which I sneakily took a selfie - I was reflecting upon myself in Freud's study), but the rooms are mostly bare and contain cases displaying inconsequent objects and commentary that tells the story of Freud's life and work.
Sometimes a place feels significant, and Freud's treatment room where the practice of psychoanalysis was honed is a good example. I can't over-state the influence of Freud's ideas on artists, writers, musicians and many others creating and working at the start of the twentieth century. Freud's client list, all of whom would have visited his treatment room, is a who's-who of significant Viennese figures. As a musician, it's quite something to imagine Gustav Mahler sitting on the couch, exploring his relationship with Alma through conversations with Freud.
Upon leaving, I was amused to notice that the small stickers you're supposed to wear to show you have paid for a ticket in the Freud museum had been used by previous visitors to decorate the street furniture outside.
In the end, the Freud museum was stimulating but didn't speak to me like the art galleries and concert I'd thus far experienced.
The next day, Sunday, was a special day. It was our anniversary.
We spent most of the day walking Vienna, deep in a conversational journey looking back on our life together. Mary and I have never found it hard to talk - from the moment we first met we've been sharing our thoughts - and Sunday was no exception. It was full of all the emotions one would expect as we reflected on our bond: both the light and the shadows, the joy and distress, the easy and the difficult. It was the sort of conversation only long term lovers, who have grown together like two adjacent trees in a forest (roots entwined), can have. I'll leave it at that. Such conversations are special because they are private and unique to the participants. Yet such conversations are also the most important conversations that lovers can have, and that Sunday was one of those occasions for Mary and I to connect in the deepest and broadest manner - surrounding each other in love.
Exhausted by our walking, we found a traditional Viennese coffee shop, the Café Schwarzenberg. I have to admit it was a bit of a tourist trap, with the elderly waiters dressed in formal attire and a Sunday afternoon jazz trio entertaining the patrons. But the place had a (touristy) buzz about it and the food and drink wasn't bad.
Just around the corner from the cafe was our final cultural visit: to the Haus der Musik - a sort of interactive music display and museum.
It was entertaining enough but, like the Freud museum, not a place that really spoke to me. I was interested to explore how they engaged folks in the science of sound and music, but the rest of the museum felt like it contained "holy relics" relating to Vienna's rich musical history: Schubert's glasses, copies of Beethoven's death mask, a Brahms sketch, Mahler's piano, some paintings by Schoenberg and so on.

The displays were intriguing in a "well, would you look at that" sort of a way, but not something that engaged deeply.
Our final meal was at a Turkish restaurant named after Ephesus. Once again Mary and I talked and talked and talked over excellent food and ended the evening toasting each other with glasses of Baileys Irish Cream (of all things!).
Monday morning led us back to the airport, and then our return to the hell that is Stansted airport, and finally our home in Towcester.
Vienna was a wonderful, rich, deep and stimulating trip for us both. Mary and I certainly had an adventure in terms of exploring a place, exploring culture, exploring food and exploring our life together so far.
We'd welcome suggestions for where to visit in a decade, when we celebrate 40 years of being together..!
Long may such shared adventures last!